Action of surfactants on the mammal epidermal skin barrier

BACKGROUND: Daily skin washing routines can promote undesirable effects on skin barrier function. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix is crucial for skin barrier function. Skin cleansing products are mostly composed of surfactants: surface-active molecules that interact with skin lipids in several...

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Detalles Bibliográficos
Autores: Barba, Clara, Semenzato, Alessandra, Baratto, Gianni, Coderch Negra, M. Luisa
Tipo de recurso: artículo
Estado:Versión aceptada para publicación
Fecha de publicación:2019
País:España
Institución:Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC)
Repositorio:DIGITAL.CSIC. Repositorio Institucional del CSIC
OAI Identifier:oai:digital.csic.es:10261/201208
Acceso en línea:http://hdl.handle.net/10261/201208
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palabra clave:Skin
Cornea
SC lipid
Surfactants
Descripción
Sumario:BACKGROUND: Daily skin washing routines can promote undesirable effects on skin barrier function. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix is crucial for skin barrier function. Skin cleansing products are mostly composed of surfactants: surface-active molecules that interact with skin lipids in several ways. The main aim of this work was to investigate the effect produced by surfactants on skin barrier permeability. Porcine skin is a well-accepted and readily available model of the human skin barrier. The effect of two cleansing formulations (based on different surfactant mixtures) on the barrier properties of mammalian skin were evaluated. METHODS: Water sorption/desorption (DVS) experiments were used to measure skin permeability. Attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy and confocal Raman were useful to study SC lipid organization. RESULTS: The results showed that while anionic surfactants (SLS) had a negative impact on the skin barrier, with a clear increase of alkyl chain disorder; cosurfactants present in the shampoo formulation diminished the detrimental effect of their primary ionic surfactant, inducing less modification on lipid intramolecular chain disorder. CONCLUSIONS: The obtained results confirmed that the mild cleansing formulations studied had gentle interaction with skin. The capacity to discriminate between detergent systems was clearly established with both DVS and spectroscopy techniques.