A new, high-resolution ‘depth of disturbance’ instrument (SAM) for use in the surf zone

The calculation of the degree of sediment disturbance through wave action in the surf and swash zone has been examined at various levels in recent years using a number of empirical techniques. Quantifying ‘depth of disturbance’(also know as sediment mixing depth) enables a better understanding of ne...

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Detalles Bibliográficos
Autores: Jackson , D.W.T., Malvárez, Gonzalo
Tipo de recurso: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2002
País:España
Institución:Universidad Pablo de Olavide (UPO)
Repositorio:RIO. Repositorio Institucional Olavide
Idioma:inglés
OAI Identifier:oai:rio.upo.es:10433/22046
Acceso en línea:https://hdl.handle.net/10433/22046
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palabra clave:Surf zone
Depth of disturbance
Waves
High Resolution
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spelling A new, high-resolution ‘depth of disturbance’ instrument (SAM) for use in the surf zoneJackson , D.W.T.Malvárez, GonzaloSurf zoneDepth of disturbanceWavesHigh ResolutionThe calculation of the degree of sediment disturbance through wave action in the surf and swash zone has been examined at various levels in recent years using a number of empirical techniques. Quantifying ‘depth of disturbance’(also know as sediment mixing depth) enables a better understanding of nearshore processes, where interaction between sediment and surf zone wave action is complex. Better understanding of how sediment responds to given surf and swash zone parameters is paramount in examining a number of phenomena such as natural beach evolution, sediment movement around engineering structures, the design and planning of beach renourishment schemes, and the monitoring of pollution behaviour. Previous empirical studies have concentrated their efforts in various methodologies such as the use of sediment tracers to mark the sediment, depth of disturbance rods deployed over a tidal cycle and the use of plug-holes filled with marked sediment. All efforts at estimating sediment disturbance in the field to date have resolved their measurements only after a complete tidal cycle and have been unable to measure processes during the actual perturbations caused by wave action within the tidal event, an essential period of activity to understand bed elevation patterns. This paper seeks to address the present shortfall in methodology with the design and construction of a new, high resolution, vertical measurement system. The new instrument, a Sediment Activity Meter (SAM), characterises surface elevation changes in the sediment bed of the surf zone at a given deployment location at approximately 2 minute sampling intervals. This technique will, for the first time, enable realistic comparisons to be made between bed change and the main forcing variables of the system during a tidal cycle. The paper mainly outlines the basic design of the new field instrument and describes, for the first time, surf zone seabed elevation changes (at a single point) measured at approximately 2-minute intervals alongside corresponding wave parameters and water depths within the surf zone. The field trials took place on a high-energy beach system in Northern Ireland.Coastal Education and Research Foundation20242024-12-0320022002-01-0120022002-01-01journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501VoRhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85info:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/10433/22046reponame:RIO. Repositorio Institucional Olavideinstname:Universidad Pablo de Olavide (UPO)Inglésengopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 Internationalhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:rio.upo.es:10433/220462026-06-13T12:46:27Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv A new, high-resolution ‘depth of disturbance’ instrument (SAM) for use in the surf zone
title A new, high-resolution ‘depth of disturbance’ instrument (SAM) for use in the surf zone
spellingShingle A new, high-resolution ‘depth of disturbance’ instrument (SAM) for use in the surf zone
Jackson , D.W.T.
Surf zone
Depth of disturbance
Waves
High Resolution
title_short A new, high-resolution ‘depth of disturbance’ instrument (SAM) for use in the surf zone
title_full A new, high-resolution ‘depth of disturbance’ instrument (SAM) for use in the surf zone
title_fullStr A new, high-resolution ‘depth of disturbance’ instrument (SAM) for use in the surf zone
title_full_unstemmed A new, high-resolution ‘depth of disturbance’ instrument (SAM) for use in the surf zone
title_sort A new, high-resolution ‘depth of disturbance’ instrument (SAM) for use in the surf zone
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Jackson , D.W.T.
Malvárez, Gonzalo
author Jackson , D.W.T.
author_facet Jackson , D.W.T.
Malvárez, Gonzalo
author_role author
author2 Malvárez, Gonzalo
author2_role author
dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Surf zone
Depth of disturbance
Waves
High Resolution
topic Surf zone
Depth of disturbance
Waves
High Resolution
description The calculation of the degree of sediment disturbance through wave action in the surf and swash zone has been examined at various levels in recent years using a number of empirical techniques. Quantifying ‘depth of disturbance’(also know as sediment mixing depth) enables a better understanding of nearshore processes, where interaction between sediment and surf zone wave action is complex. Better understanding of how sediment responds to given surf and swash zone parameters is paramount in examining a number of phenomena such as natural beach evolution, sediment movement around engineering structures, the design and planning of beach renourishment schemes, and the monitoring of pollution behaviour. Previous empirical studies have concentrated their efforts in various methodologies such as the use of sediment tracers to mark the sediment, depth of disturbance rods deployed over a tidal cycle and the use of plug-holes filled with marked sediment. All efforts at estimating sediment disturbance in the field to date have resolved their measurements only after a complete tidal cycle and have been unable to measure processes during the actual perturbations caused by wave action within the tidal event, an essential period of activity to understand bed elevation patterns. This paper seeks to address the present shortfall in methodology with the design and construction of a new, high resolution, vertical measurement system. The new instrument, a Sediment Activity Meter (SAM), characterises surface elevation changes in the sediment bed of the surf zone at a given deployment location at approximately 2 minute sampling intervals. This technique will, for the first time, enable realistic comparisons to be made between bed change and the main forcing variables of the system during a tidal cycle. The paper mainly outlines the basic design of the new field instrument and describes, for the first time, surf zone seabed elevation changes (at a single point) measured at approximately 2-minute intervals alongside corresponding wave parameters and water depths within the surf zone. The field trials took place on a high-energy beach system in Northern Ireland.
publishDate 2002
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2002
2002-01-01
2002
2002-01-01
2024
2024-12-03
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv journal article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
VoR
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv https://hdl.handle.net/10433/22046
url https://hdl.handle.net/10433/22046
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
eng
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
language eng
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Coastal Education and Research Foundation
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Coastal Education and Research Foundation
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:RIO. Repositorio Institucional Olavide
instname:Universidad Pablo de Olavide (UPO)
instname_str Universidad Pablo de Olavide (UPO)
reponame_str RIO. Repositorio Institucional Olavide
collection RIO. Repositorio Institucional Olavide
repository.name.fl_str_mv
repository.mail.fl_str_mv
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