Short-term morphodynamic changes in a fetch limited beach at the Ebro delta (Spain), under low wave-energy conditions

Sandy beaches in fetch-limited environments are protected from large ocean-generated swell waves, and fetch characteristics allow local wind-generated waves and currents to develop and drive the main morphodynamic processes. The morphodynamics of these low-energy beaches present a peculiar behaviour...

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Autores: Mösso Aranda, César|||0000-0003-2598-1864, Sierra Pedrico, Juan Pablo|||0000-0003-0814-1134, Gracia García, Vicente|||0000-0002-4628-426X, Mestres Ridge, Marc|||0000-0002-2010-8241, Rodríguez Allende, Andrés
Tipo de recurso: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2011
País:España
Institución:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
Repositorio:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
Idioma:inglés
OAI Identifier:oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/14459
Acceso en línea:https://hdl.handle.net/2117/14459
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palabra clave:Coast changes--Spain--Congresses
Erosió costanera -- Ebre, el -- Delta
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
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network_acronym_str ES
network_name_str España
repository_id_str
spelling Short-term morphodynamic changes in a fetch limited beach at the Ebro delta (Spain), under low wave-energy conditionsMösso Aranda, César|||0000-0003-2598-1864Sierra Pedrico, Juan Pablo|||0000-0003-0814-1134Gracia García, Vicente|||0000-0002-4628-426XMestres Ridge, Marc|||0000-0002-2010-8241Rodríguez Allende, AndrésCoast changes--Spain--CongressesErosió costanera -- Ebre, el -- DeltaÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costesSandy beaches in fetch-limited environments are protected from large ocean-generated swell waves, and fetch characteristics allow local wind-generated waves and currents to develop and drive the main morphodynamic processes. The morphodynamics of these low-energy beaches present a peculiar behaviour since there is not a dominant forcing mechanism inducing the beach changes. The main objective of this work is to describe and quantify the observed morphodynamic changes at the barred, quasi longshore-uniform beach of the Trabucador Bar at the Ebro Delta (Spain) under low-energy conditions. A nine-day field campaign was carried out within the framework of the European project FANS (Fluxes Across Narrow Shelves. The Ebro Delta Case) supported by the EC MAST-III Research Programme, (Contract No. MAS3-CT95-0037, DG12 – ESCY) and the measurements included a detailed topo-bathymetric surveying at the beginning and at the end of the campaign, video recordings covering the whole domain of the study area, surf zone waves and currents time series obtained at different positions and depths, nearshore pressure and horizontal velocities time series outside the surf zone. The results show that the beach underwent important longshore and cross-shore (the breaching of the submerged bar) morphodynamic changes under low-energy conditions. The observations suggest that the low-energy wave field and the beach profile played a key role in the generation of low frequency oscillations and rip currents that reshaped the whole study zone.20112011-01-0120122012-01-10journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501VoRhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85info:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/2117/14459reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPCinstname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)Inglésengopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/144592026-05-27T15:37:01Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Short-term morphodynamic changes in a fetch limited beach at the Ebro delta (Spain), under low wave-energy conditions
title Short-term morphodynamic changes in a fetch limited beach at the Ebro delta (Spain), under low wave-energy conditions
spellingShingle Short-term morphodynamic changes in a fetch limited beach at the Ebro delta (Spain), under low wave-energy conditions
Mösso Aranda, César|||0000-0003-2598-1864
Coast changes--Spain--Congresses
Erosió costanera -- Ebre, el -- Delta
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
title_short Short-term morphodynamic changes in a fetch limited beach at the Ebro delta (Spain), under low wave-energy conditions
title_full Short-term morphodynamic changes in a fetch limited beach at the Ebro delta (Spain), under low wave-energy conditions
title_fullStr Short-term morphodynamic changes in a fetch limited beach at the Ebro delta (Spain), under low wave-energy conditions
title_full_unstemmed Short-term morphodynamic changes in a fetch limited beach at the Ebro delta (Spain), under low wave-energy conditions
title_sort Short-term morphodynamic changes in a fetch limited beach at the Ebro delta (Spain), under low wave-energy conditions
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Mösso Aranda, César|||0000-0003-2598-1864
Sierra Pedrico, Juan Pablo|||0000-0003-0814-1134
Gracia García, Vicente|||0000-0002-4628-426X
Mestres Ridge, Marc|||0000-0002-2010-8241
Rodríguez Allende, Andrés
author Mösso Aranda, César|||0000-0003-2598-1864
author_facet Mösso Aranda, César|||0000-0003-2598-1864
Sierra Pedrico, Juan Pablo|||0000-0003-0814-1134
Gracia García, Vicente|||0000-0002-4628-426X
Mestres Ridge, Marc|||0000-0002-2010-8241
Rodríguez Allende, Andrés
author_role author
author2 Sierra Pedrico, Juan Pablo|||0000-0003-0814-1134
Gracia García, Vicente|||0000-0002-4628-426X
Mestres Ridge, Marc|||0000-0002-2010-8241
Rodríguez Allende, Andrés
author2_role author
author
author
author
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Coast changes--Spain--Congresses
Erosió costanera -- Ebre, el -- Delta
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
topic Coast changes--Spain--Congresses
Erosió costanera -- Ebre, el -- Delta
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
description Sandy beaches in fetch-limited environments are protected from large ocean-generated swell waves, and fetch characteristics allow local wind-generated waves and currents to develop and drive the main morphodynamic processes. The morphodynamics of these low-energy beaches present a peculiar behaviour since there is not a dominant forcing mechanism inducing the beach changes. The main objective of this work is to describe and quantify the observed morphodynamic changes at the barred, quasi longshore-uniform beach of the Trabucador Bar at the Ebro Delta (Spain) under low-energy conditions. A nine-day field campaign was carried out within the framework of the European project FANS (Fluxes Across Narrow Shelves. The Ebro Delta Case) supported by the EC MAST-III Research Programme, (Contract No. MAS3-CT95-0037, DG12 – ESCY) and the measurements included a detailed topo-bathymetric surveying at the beginning and at the end of the campaign, video recordings covering the whole domain of the study area, surf zone waves and currents time series obtained at different positions and depths, nearshore pressure and horizontal velocities time series outside the surf zone. The results show that the beach underwent important longshore and cross-shore (the breaching of the submerged bar) morphodynamic changes under low-energy conditions. The observations suggest that the low-energy wave field and the beach profile played a key role in the generation of low frequency oscillations and rip currents that reshaped the whole study zone.
publishDate 2011
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2011
2011-01-01
2012
2012-01-10
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv journal article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
VoR
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv https://hdl.handle.net/2117/14459
url https://hdl.handle.net/2117/14459
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
eng
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
language eng
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
instname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
instname_str Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
reponame_str UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
collection UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
repository.name.fl_str_mv
repository.mail.fl_str_mv
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score 15.300719

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