A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence

Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to the shore and meandering crescentic bars associated with intense (dangerous) currents flowing seaward through rip channels. Understanding the behavior of such systems is fundamental as they control the...

Descripción completa

Detalles Bibliográficos
Autores: Garnier, Roland, Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509, Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137, Thiebot, Jerome, Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
Tipo de recurso: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2013
País:España
Institución:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
Repositorio:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
Idioma:inglés
OAI Identifier:oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/20100
Acceso en línea:https://hdl.handle.net/2117/20100
https://dx.doi.org/10.1002/grl.50464
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palabra clave:Morphology
Sand bars
Waves
rip channels
rip currents
morphological reset
morphodynamics
Sorra -- Bancs
Onades -- Influència
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
id ES_12d9c6b3535cdd1d7ffc0decee2e7501
oai_identifier_str oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/20100
network_acronym_str ES
network_name_str España
repository_id_str
spelling A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidenceGarnier, RolandFalqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137Thiebot, JeromeRibas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982MorphologySand barsWavesrip channelsrip currentsmorphological resetmorphodynamicsSorra -- BancsOnades -- InfluènciaÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::FísicaBreaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to the shore and meandering crescentic bars associated with intense (dangerous) currents flowing seaward through rip channels. Understanding the behavior of such systems is fundamental as they control the entire surf zone dynamics, the shape of the coastline, and the exchange of floating material with the shoreface. Although the mechanisms behind the meandering of an originally straight bar have been studied extensively, a clear physical explanation on the crescentic bar straightening was missing. Recent field observations have highlighted that this morphological reset can be due to wave obliquity. By using a two-dimensional horizontal morphological model, we show that the bar straightening by oblique waves occurs because the rip current is both weakened in intensity and shifted downdrift from the channel deepest section. The technique employed is useful for the study of other types of bed forms.20132013-06-0620132013-09-05journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501VoRhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85info:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/2117/20100https://dx.doi.org/10.1002/grl.50464reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPCinstname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)Inglésengopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spainhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/201002026-05-27T15:37:01Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence
title A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence
spellingShingle A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence
Garnier, Roland
Morphology
Sand bars
Waves
rip channels
rip currents
morphological reset
morphodynamics
Sorra -- Bancs
Onades -- Influència
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
title_short A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence
title_full A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence
title_fullStr A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence
title_full_unstemmed A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence
title_sort A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Garnier, Roland
Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509
Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137
Thiebot, Jerome
Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
author Garnier, Roland
author_facet Garnier, Roland
Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509
Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137
Thiebot, Jerome
Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
author_role author
author2 Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509
Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137
Thiebot, Jerome
Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
author2_role author
author
author
author
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Morphology
Sand bars
Waves
rip channels
rip currents
morphological reset
morphodynamics
Sorra -- Bancs
Onades -- Influència
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
topic Morphology
Sand bars
Waves
rip channels
rip currents
morphological reset
morphodynamics
Sorra -- Bancs
Onades -- Influència
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
description Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to the shore and meandering crescentic bars associated with intense (dangerous) currents flowing seaward through rip channels. Understanding the behavior of such systems is fundamental as they control the entire surf zone dynamics, the shape of the coastline, and the exchange of floating material with the shoreface. Although the mechanisms behind the meandering of an originally straight bar have been studied extensively, a clear physical explanation on the crescentic bar straightening was missing. Recent field observations have highlighted that this morphological reset can be due to wave obliquity. By using a two-dimensional horizontal morphological model, we show that the bar straightening by oblique waves occurs because the rip current is both weakened in intensity and shifted downdrift from the channel deepest section. The technique employed is useful for the study of other types of bed forms.
publishDate 2013
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2013
2013-06-06
2013
2013-09-05
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv journal article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
VoR
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv https://hdl.handle.net/2117/20100
https://dx.doi.org/10.1002/grl.50464
url https://hdl.handle.net/2117/20100
https://dx.doi.org/10.1002/grl.50464
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
eng
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
language eng
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/
dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
instname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
instname_str Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
reponame_str UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
collection UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
repository.name.fl_str_mv
repository.mail.fl_str_mv
_version_ 1869403640824856576
score 15,300719

Similares en LA Referencia