Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves

As waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Resolving these surf zone processes pose significant challenges for conventional mesh-based hydrodynamic mode...

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Autores: Lowe, Ryan J., Altomare, Corrado|||0000-0001-8817-0431, Buckley, Mark L., da Silva, R.F., Hansen, Jeff, Rijnsdorp, Dirk, Domínguez Alonso, José Manuel, Cabrera Crespo, Alejandro
Formato: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2022
País:España
Recursos:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
Repositorio:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
Idioma:inglés
OAI Identifier:oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/387691
Acesso em linha:https://hdl.handle.net/2117/387691
https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2022.101945
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palavra-chave:Water waves--Mathematical models
Wave breaking
Surf zone
Wave runup
Wave modelling
Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics
DualSPHysics
Onades -- Models matemàtics
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
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spelling Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular wavesLowe, Ryan J.Altomare, Corrado|||0000-0001-8817-0431Buckley, Mark L.da Silva, R.F.Hansen, JeffRijnsdorp, DirkDomínguez Alonso, José ManuelCabrera Crespo, AlejandroWater waves--Mathematical modelsWave breakingSurf zoneWave runupWave modellingSmoothed Particle HydrodynamicsDualSPHysicsOnades -- Models matemàticsÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costesAs waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Resolving these surf zone processes pose significant challenges for conventional mesh-based hydrodynamic models, due to the rapidly-deforming nature of the free surface and associated flows. Yet the accurate prediction of these surf zone hydrodynamics is critical for predicting a wide range of nearshore processes driven by wave breaking (e.g., wave dissipation and energy transfers; mean water levels and currents; and wave runup). In this study we assess the ability of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle-based numerical modelling approach Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) based on DualSPHysics, to simulate the fine-scale hydrodynamic processes driven by irregular wave transformation over a fringing reef profile, by comparing results against detailed experimental observations from a physical modelling study. To greatly improve the computational efficiency, the SPH model was coupled to the mesh-based multi-layer nonhydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH. With this coupled approach, SWASH was used to efficiently simulate the evolution of non-breaking waves from the wavemaker up to the fore reef slope, with the SPH model then used to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes over the reef from just offshore of the breakpoint to the shoreline. The SPH model was able to accurately reproduce the complex free surface deformations during plunging breaking, the spectral evolution of waves across the reef flat (including nonlinear wave shape), the mean water levels and currents, and wave runup at the shoreline. Using the long duration simulations (>400 wave periods), the model was able to reproduce the full range of wave motions over the reef (from sea-swell to infragravity frequencies), including the increasing dominance of low frequency waves towards the shoreline and the large cross-reef standing wave motions excited by the reef geometry.Peer Reviewed20222022-03-0120232023-05-22journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501AMhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_ab4af688f83e57aainfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/2117/387691https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2022.101945reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPCinstname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)Inglésengopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 Internationalhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/3876912026-05-27T15:37:01Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves
title Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves
spellingShingle Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves
Lowe, Ryan J.
Water waves--Mathematical models
Wave breaking
Surf zone
Wave runup
Wave modelling
Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics
DualSPHysics
Onades -- Models matemàtics
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
title_short Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves
title_full Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves
title_fullStr Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves
title_full_unstemmed Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves
title_sort Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Lowe, Ryan J.
Altomare, Corrado|||0000-0001-8817-0431
Buckley, Mark L.
da Silva, R.F.
Hansen, Jeff
Rijnsdorp, Dirk
Domínguez Alonso, José Manuel
Cabrera Crespo, Alejandro
author Lowe, Ryan J.
author_facet Lowe, Ryan J.
Altomare, Corrado|||0000-0001-8817-0431
Buckley, Mark L.
da Silva, R.F.
Hansen, Jeff
Rijnsdorp, Dirk
Domínguez Alonso, José Manuel
Cabrera Crespo, Alejandro
author_role author
author2 Altomare, Corrado|||0000-0001-8817-0431
Buckley, Mark L.
da Silva, R.F.
Hansen, Jeff
Rijnsdorp, Dirk
Domínguez Alonso, José Manuel
Cabrera Crespo, Alejandro
author2_role author
author
author
author
author
author
author
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Water waves--Mathematical models
Wave breaking
Surf zone
Wave runup
Wave modelling
Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics
DualSPHysics
Onades -- Models matemàtics
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
topic Water waves--Mathematical models
Wave breaking
Surf zone
Wave runup
Wave modelling
Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics
DualSPHysics
Onades -- Models matemàtics
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
description As waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Resolving these surf zone processes pose significant challenges for conventional mesh-based hydrodynamic models, due to the rapidly-deforming nature of the free surface and associated flows. Yet the accurate prediction of these surf zone hydrodynamics is critical for predicting a wide range of nearshore processes driven by wave breaking (e.g., wave dissipation and energy transfers; mean water levels and currents; and wave runup). In this study we assess the ability of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle-based numerical modelling approach Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) based on DualSPHysics, to simulate the fine-scale hydrodynamic processes driven by irregular wave transformation over a fringing reef profile, by comparing results against detailed experimental observations from a physical modelling study. To greatly improve the computational efficiency, the SPH model was coupled to the mesh-based multi-layer nonhydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH. With this coupled approach, SWASH was used to efficiently simulate the evolution of non-breaking waves from the wavemaker up to the fore reef slope, with the SPH model then used to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes over the reef from just offshore of the breakpoint to the shoreline. The SPH model was able to accurately reproduce the complex free surface deformations during plunging breaking, the spectral evolution of waves across the reef flat (including nonlinear wave shape), the mean water levels and currents, and wave runup at the shoreline. Using the long duration simulations (>400 wave periods), the model was able to reproduce the full range of wave motions over the reef (from sea-swell to infragravity frequencies), including the increasing dominance of low frequency waves towards the shoreline and the large cross-reef standing wave motions excited by the reef geometry.
publishDate 2022
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2022
2022-03-01
2023
2023-05-22
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv journal article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
AM
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_ab4af688f83e57aa
dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv https://hdl.handle.net/2117/387691
https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2022.101945
url https://hdl.handle.net/2117/387691
https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2022.101945
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
eng
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
language eng
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
instname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
instname_str Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
reponame_str UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
collection UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
repository.name.fl_str_mv
repository.mail.fl_str_mv
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score 15.301603

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