Nearshore oblique sand bars

The coupling between hydrodynamics and the evolving topography in the surf zone has been theoretically examined for oblique wave incidence. It is shown that positive feedback can lead to the initial growth of several types of rhythmic systems of sand bars. The bars can be down-current oriented or up...

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Detalles Bibliográficos
Autores: Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982, Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509, Montoto Gayete, Amadeo
Tipo de recurso: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2003
País:España
Institución:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
Repositorio:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
Idioma:inglés
OAI Identifier:oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/26202
Acceso en línea:https://hdl.handle.net/2117/26202
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palabra clave:Sand bars
Nearshore system
Surf zone morphodynamics
Rhythmic oblique sand bars
Longshore sediment transport
Stability analysis
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
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spelling Nearshore oblique sand barsRibas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509Montoto Gayete, AmadeoSand barsNearshore systemSurf zone morphodynamicsRhythmic oblique sand barsLongshore sediment transportStability analysisÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::FísicaThe coupling between hydrodynamics and the evolving topography in the surf zone has been theoretically examined for oblique wave incidence. It is shown that positive feedback can lead to the initial growth of several types of rhythmic systems of sand bars. The bars can be down-current oriented or up-current oriented, which means that the offshore end of the bar is shifted down-current or up-current with respect to the shore attachment. In the limit of strong current compared to wave orbital motion, very oblique down-current oriented bars are obtained with a spacing of several times the surf zone width. When wave orbital motions are dominant, systems of up-current oriented bars and crescentic/down-current oriented bars appear with spacings of the order of the surf zone width. The latter feature consists of alternating shoals and troughs at both sides of the break line with the inner shoals being bar-shaped and oblique to the coast. The growth (e-folding) time of the bars ranges from a few hours to a few days and it is favored by constant wave conditions. The range of model parameters leading to growth corresponds to intermediate beach states in between the fully dissipative and the fully reflective situations. Preliminary comparison with field observations shows qualitative agreement.Peer ReviewedAmerican Geophysical Union (AGU)20032003-04-0120152015-02-04journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501VoRhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85info:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/2117/26202reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPCinstname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)Inglésengopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spainhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/262022026-05-27T15:37:01Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Nearshore oblique sand bars
title Nearshore oblique sand bars
spellingShingle Nearshore oblique sand bars
Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
Sand bars
Nearshore system
Surf zone morphodynamics
Rhythmic oblique sand bars
Longshore sediment transport
Stability analysis
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
title_short Nearshore oblique sand bars
title_full Nearshore oblique sand bars
title_fullStr Nearshore oblique sand bars
title_full_unstemmed Nearshore oblique sand bars
title_sort Nearshore oblique sand bars
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509
Montoto Gayete, Amadeo
author Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
author_facet Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509
Montoto Gayete, Amadeo
author_role author
author2 Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509
Montoto Gayete, Amadeo
author2_role author
author
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Sand bars
Nearshore system
Surf zone morphodynamics
Rhythmic oblique sand bars
Longshore sediment transport
Stability analysis
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
topic Sand bars
Nearshore system
Surf zone morphodynamics
Rhythmic oblique sand bars
Longshore sediment transport
Stability analysis
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
description The coupling between hydrodynamics and the evolving topography in the surf zone has been theoretically examined for oblique wave incidence. It is shown that positive feedback can lead to the initial growth of several types of rhythmic systems of sand bars. The bars can be down-current oriented or up-current oriented, which means that the offshore end of the bar is shifted down-current or up-current with respect to the shore attachment. In the limit of strong current compared to wave orbital motion, very oblique down-current oriented bars are obtained with a spacing of several times the surf zone width. When wave orbital motions are dominant, systems of up-current oriented bars and crescentic/down-current oriented bars appear with spacings of the order of the surf zone width. The latter feature consists of alternating shoals and troughs at both sides of the break line with the inner shoals being bar-shaped and oblique to the coast. The growth (e-folding) time of the bars ranges from a few hours to a few days and it is favored by constant wave conditions. The range of model parameters leading to growth corresponds to intermediate beach states in between the fully dissipative and the fully reflective situations. Preliminary comparison with field observations shows qualitative agreement.
publishDate 2003
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2003
2003-04-01
2015
2015-02-04
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv journal article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
VoR
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv https://hdl.handle.net/2117/26202
url https://hdl.handle.net/2117/26202
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
eng
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
language eng
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/
dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv American Geophysical Union (AGU)
publisher.none.fl_str_mv American Geophysical Union (AGU)
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
instname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
instname_str Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
reponame_str UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
collection UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
repository.name.fl_str_mv
repository.mail.fl_str_mv
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score 15,300719

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