A long-term equilibrium beach planform model for coastal work design
Traditional models usually allow fitting the equilibrium beach planform of crenulated beaches knowing wave climate characteristics at a control point. However, sometimes there are shoals or bars in the surf zone which affect surf zone dynamics and longshore sediment distribution, and it is difficult...
| Autores: | , |
|---|---|
| Tipo de recurso: | artículo |
| Fecha de publicación: | 2012 |
| País: | España |
| Institución: | Universidad de Cantabria (UC) |
| Repositorio: | UCrea Repositorio Abierto de la Universidad de Cantabria |
| Idioma: | inglés |
| OAI Identifier: | oai:repositorio.unican.es:10902/3779 |
| Acceso en línea: | http://hdl.handle.net/10902/3779 |
| Access Level: | acceso abierto |
| Palabra clave: | Static equilibrium beach planform Height gradient Oblique incidence Longshore sediment transport Porous concrete Breaking wave |
| Sumario: | Traditional models usually allow fitting the equilibrium beach planform of crenulated beaches knowing wave climate characteristics at a control point. However, sometimes there are shoals or bars in the surf zone which affect surf zone dynamics and longshore sediment distribution, and it is difficult to take into account these elements using those traditional models. A long-term equilibrium beach planform model is proposed here based on sediment transport equations. This model takes into account the sediment transport due to oblique wave incidence and that due to wave height gradient. Two case studies have been studied: a simple pocket beach and a beach which is sheltered by a sandstone bar. Results show the model fits reasonably well the equilibrium beach planform to the shorelines of those beaches. This model is more suitable than traditional models when there are elements affecting surf zone dynamics. |
|---|