Role of lipids in water permeation of different curl pattern hair types

Background: Dark-base hair fibers with Curl Pattern (CP) types 2 and 3 from Asian and European populations, respectively, are very similar, although each presents different behaviors regarding water diffusion and cosmetic treatments, including in relation to dyeing. This study aims to identify the k...

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Detalles Bibliográficos
Autores: Coderch Negra, Luisa, Sabatier, Laura, Pasini, Isabelle, Alonso Merino, Cristina, Martí Gelabert, Meritxell|||0000-0001-9681-6466, Baghdadli, Nawel
Tipo de recurso: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2025
País:España
Institución:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
Repositorio:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
Idioma:inglés
OAI Identifier:oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/441636
Acceso en línea:https://hdl.handle.net/2117/441636
https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050193
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palabra clave:Hair
Lipids
Moisture
Diffusion
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria dels materials
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spelling Role of lipids in water permeation of different curl pattern hair typesCoderch Negra, LuisaSabatier, LauraPasini, IsabelleAlonso Merino, CristinaMartí Gelabert, Meritxell|||0000-0001-9681-6466Baghdadli, NawelHairLipidsMoistureDiffusionÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria dels materialsBackground: Dark-base hair fibers with Curl Pattern (CP) types 2 and 3 from Asian and European populations, respectively, are very similar, although each presents different behaviors regarding water diffusion and cosmetic treatments, including in relation to dyeing. This study aims to identify the key drivers of water diffusion in hair, particularly the role of lipids in the diffusion processes. Methods: Virgin, externally delipidized, and internally delipidized CP2 and CP3 hair strands were subjected to Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS) and ATR-FTIR investigations. In addition, external and internal lipid extracts were quantified and analyzed via thin-layer chromatography–flame ionization detection (TLC/FID). Results: The results obtained indicate that CP2 hairs present lower water regain at all humidity steps and a different diffusion behavior depending on the humidity. Lower diffusion was obtained at low humidity and higher diffusion at high humidity. TLC/FID analyses indicate that CP2 fibers present a significantly higher amount of external lipids (1.4% vs. 0.4%) and internal lipids (3.2% vs. 2.6%) as compared with the CP3 fibers. Conclusions: The higher amount of internal lipids is mainly due to the greater amount of polar lipids (ceramides). Lipid extraction tends to modify the water content, leading to a more hydrated and less permeable lipid-depleted fiber. The similar water properties of the two types of lipid fiber support the fundamental role of lipids, even when present in small quantities, in the differentiation of hair types. This study highlights a potential link between the lipid composition of CP3 and CP2 hair fibers and their differences in behaviors regarding water diffusion, which could also explain varying responses to cosmetic treatmentsThe authors wish to thank L’Oreal Research & Innovation for the financial support. The authors acknowledge also the Dermocosmetic Assessment Service and the Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry “Josep Carilla” Service, both from IQAC-CSIC, for their collaboration and technical support9 - Indústria, Innovació i InfraestructuraMultidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI)20252025-09-0420252025-09-15journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501VoRhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85info:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/2117/441636https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050193reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPCinstname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)Inglésengopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Attribution 4.0 Internationalhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/4416362026-05-27T15:37:01Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Role of lipids in water permeation of different curl pattern hair types
title Role of lipids in water permeation of different curl pattern hair types
spellingShingle Role of lipids in water permeation of different curl pattern hair types
Coderch Negra, Luisa
Hair
Lipids
Moisture
Diffusion
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria dels materials
title_short Role of lipids in water permeation of different curl pattern hair types
title_full Role of lipids in water permeation of different curl pattern hair types
title_fullStr Role of lipids in water permeation of different curl pattern hair types
title_full_unstemmed Role of lipids in water permeation of different curl pattern hair types
title_sort Role of lipids in water permeation of different curl pattern hair types
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Coderch Negra, Luisa
Sabatier, Laura
Pasini, Isabelle
Alonso Merino, Cristina
Martí Gelabert, Meritxell|||0000-0001-9681-6466
Baghdadli, Nawel
author Coderch Negra, Luisa
author_facet Coderch Negra, Luisa
Sabatier, Laura
Pasini, Isabelle
Alonso Merino, Cristina
Martí Gelabert, Meritxell|||0000-0001-9681-6466
Baghdadli, Nawel
author_role author
author2 Sabatier, Laura
Pasini, Isabelle
Alonso Merino, Cristina
Martí Gelabert, Meritxell|||0000-0001-9681-6466
Baghdadli, Nawel
author2_role author
author
author
author
author
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Hair
Lipids
Moisture
Diffusion
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria dels materials
topic Hair
Lipids
Moisture
Diffusion
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria dels materials
description Background: Dark-base hair fibers with Curl Pattern (CP) types 2 and 3 from Asian and European populations, respectively, are very similar, although each presents different behaviors regarding water diffusion and cosmetic treatments, including in relation to dyeing. This study aims to identify the key drivers of water diffusion in hair, particularly the role of lipids in the diffusion processes. Methods: Virgin, externally delipidized, and internally delipidized CP2 and CP3 hair strands were subjected to Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS) and ATR-FTIR investigations. In addition, external and internal lipid extracts were quantified and analyzed via thin-layer chromatography–flame ionization detection (TLC/FID). Results: The results obtained indicate that CP2 hairs present lower water regain at all humidity steps and a different diffusion behavior depending on the humidity. Lower diffusion was obtained at low humidity and higher diffusion at high humidity. TLC/FID analyses indicate that CP2 fibers present a significantly higher amount of external lipids (1.4% vs. 0.4%) and internal lipids (3.2% vs. 2.6%) as compared with the CP3 fibers. Conclusions: The higher amount of internal lipids is mainly due to the greater amount of polar lipids (ceramides). Lipid extraction tends to modify the water content, leading to a more hydrated and less permeable lipid-depleted fiber. The similar water properties of the two types of lipid fiber support the fundamental role of lipids, even when present in small quantities, in the differentiation of hair types. This study highlights a potential link between the lipid composition of CP3 and CP2 hair fibers and their differences in behaviors regarding water diffusion, which could also explain varying responses to cosmetic treatments
publishDate 2025
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2025
2025-09-04
2025
2025-09-15
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv journal article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
VoR
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv https://hdl.handle.net/2117/441636
https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050193
url https://hdl.handle.net/2117/441636
https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050193
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
eng
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
language eng
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI)
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI)
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
instname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
instname_str Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
reponame_str UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
collection UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
repository.name.fl_str_mv
repository.mail.fl_str_mv
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score 15,811543

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