Bar and berm dynamics during transition from dissipative to reflective beach profile
Bar and berm morphology characterize the seasonal beach evolution, and determine the protection against storm erosion as well as the touristic use of beaches. Thus, they are of particular interest for coastal management and engineering in the nearshore zone. This study used large-scale wave flume ex...
| Autores: | , , , , |
|---|---|
| Tipo de recurso: | artículo |
| Fecha de publicación: | 2024 |
| País: | España |
| Institución: | Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) |
| Repositorio: | UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC |
| Idioma: | inglés |
| OAI Identifier: | oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/413572 |
| Acceso en línea: | https://hdl.handle.net/2117/413572 https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104561 |
| Access Level: | acceso abierto |
| Palabra clave: | Coast changes Sandbar Beach face Surf-swash sand exchange Wave breaking Berm overwash Enginyeria de costes Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes |
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Bar and berm dynamics during transition from dissipative to reflective beach profileGrossmann, Florian|||0000-0002-1037-2372Hurther, DavidSánchez-Arcilla Conejo, Agustín|||0000-0002-3450-6697Padilla de la Torre, Enrique Manuel|||0000-0003-0532-8809Alsina Torrent, José María|||0000-0002-3055-5379Coast changesSandbarBeach faceSurf-swash sand exchangeWave breakingBerm overwashEnginyeria de costesÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costesBar and berm morphology characterize the seasonal beach evolution, and determine the protection against storm erosion as well as the touristic use of beaches. Thus, they are of particular interest for coastal management and engineering in the nearshore zone. This study used large-scale wave flume experiments to observe the transition from fully dissipative to fully reflective beach profile at a high level of detail. Starting from a post-storm profile generated under energetic waves, a very low energy wave condition caused dissipation of the outer and the inner bar, shoreline recovery, and berm accretion. Measurements revealed feedback between hydrodynamics and beach profile evolution with an onshore shift of the wave breaking location. As a result, the magnitude and cross-shore evolution of wave asymmetry-related bedload net onshore and suspended net offshore transport changed. The relative magnitudes of the two transport components and the way they shifted relative to each other caused the observed beach recovery. Additionally, a link between bar and berm morphology (surf-swash sand exchange) was observed. The shifting breakpoint enabled sustained, wave asymmetry-related onshore transport in the inner surf zone, feeding the berm accretion which occurred through advective swash zone processes including berm overwash.We thank two anonymous reviewers for their valuable comments which helped to improve the manuscript. We acknowledge funding from the REST-COAST project which receives funding from the EU Horizon 2020 Research and Innovation Programme under Grant Agreement number 101037097. JA acknowledges funding from the Serra Húnter Programme (SHP) . We thank Joaquim Sospedra, Oscar Galego, Dr. Andrea Marzeddu, Dr. Iván Cáceres, and Dr. Joep van der Zanden for their contributions to the experiments.Peer Reviewed20242024-09-0120242024-08-30journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501VoRhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85info:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/2117/413572https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104561reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPCinstname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)InglésengEuropean Commission http://doi.org/10.13039/100010661 Horizon 2020 Framework Programme 101037097 Large scale RESToration of COASTal ecosystems through rivers to sea connectivityopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 Internationalhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/4135722026-05-27T15:37:01Z |
| dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Bar and berm dynamics during transition from dissipative to reflective beach profile |
| title |
Bar and berm dynamics during transition from dissipative to reflective beach profile |
| spellingShingle |
Bar and berm dynamics during transition from dissipative to reflective beach profile Grossmann, Florian|||0000-0002-1037-2372 Coast changes Sandbar Beach face Surf-swash sand exchange Wave breaking Berm overwash Enginyeria de costes Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes |
| title_short |
Bar and berm dynamics during transition from dissipative to reflective beach profile |
| title_full |
Bar and berm dynamics during transition from dissipative to reflective beach profile |
| title_fullStr |
Bar and berm dynamics during transition from dissipative to reflective beach profile |
| title_full_unstemmed |
Bar and berm dynamics during transition from dissipative to reflective beach profile |
| title_sort |
Bar and berm dynamics during transition from dissipative to reflective beach profile |
| dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv |
Grossmann, Florian|||0000-0002-1037-2372 Hurther, David Sánchez-Arcilla Conejo, Agustín|||0000-0002-3450-6697 Padilla de la Torre, Enrique Manuel|||0000-0003-0532-8809 Alsina Torrent, José María|||0000-0002-3055-5379 |
| author |
Grossmann, Florian|||0000-0002-1037-2372 |
| author_facet |
Grossmann, Florian|||0000-0002-1037-2372 Hurther, David Sánchez-Arcilla Conejo, Agustín|||0000-0002-3450-6697 Padilla de la Torre, Enrique Manuel|||0000-0003-0532-8809 Alsina Torrent, José María|||0000-0002-3055-5379 |
| author_role |
author |
| author2 |
Hurther, David Sánchez-Arcilla Conejo, Agustín|||0000-0002-3450-6697 Padilla de la Torre, Enrique Manuel|||0000-0003-0532-8809 Alsina Torrent, José María|||0000-0002-3055-5379 |
| author2_role |
author author author author |
| dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv |
Coast changes Sandbar Beach face Surf-swash sand exchange Wave breaking Berm overwash Enginyeria de costes Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes |
| topic |
Coast changes Sandbar Beach face Surf-swash sand exchange Wave breaking Berm overwash Enginyeria de costes Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes |
| description |
Bar and berm morphology characterize the seasonal beach evolution, and determine the protection against storm erosion as well as the touristic use of beaches. Thus, they are of particular interest for coastal management and engineering in the nearshore zone. This study used large-scale wave flume experiments to observe the transition from fully dissipative to fully reflective beach profile at a high level of detail. Starting from a post-storm profile generated under energetic waves, a very low energy wave condition caused dissipation of the outer and the inner bar, shoreline recovery, and berm accretion. Measurements revealed feedback between hydrodynamics and beach profile evolution with an onshore shift of the wave breaking location. As a result, the magnitude and cross-shore evolution of wave asymmetry-related bedload net onshore and suspended net offshore transport changed. The relative magnitudes of the two transport components and the way they shifted relative to each other caused the observed beach recovery. Additionally, a link between bar and berm morphology (surf-swash sand exchange) was observed. The shifting breakpoint enabled sustained, wave asymmetry-related onshore transport in the inner surf zone, feeding the berm accretion which occurred through advective swash zone processes including berm overwash. |
| publishDate |
2024 |
| dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2024 2024-09-01 2024 2024-08-30 |
| dc.type.none.fl_str_mv |
journal article http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501 VoR http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85 |
| dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article |
| format |
article |
| dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv |
https://hdl.handle.net/2117/413572 https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104561 |
| url |
https://hdl.handle.net/2117/413572 https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104561 |
| dc.language.none.fl_str_mv |
Inglés eng |
| language_invalid_str_mv |
Inglés |
| language |
eng |
| dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
European Commission http://doi.org/10.13039/100010661 Horizon 2020 Framework Programme 101037097 Large scale RESToration of COASTal ecosystems through rivers to sea connectivity |
| dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv |
open access http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2 Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/ |
| dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
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open access http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2 Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/ |
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openAccess |
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application/pdf |
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reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC instname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) |
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UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC |
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