The influence of bandwidth on the energetics of intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking waves

An experimental investigation of two-dimensional dispersively focused laboratory breaking waves is presented. We describe the bandwidth effect on breaking wave energetics, including spectral energy evolution, characteristic group velocity, energy dissipation and its rate, and breaking strength param...

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Autores: Cao, Rui, Padilla de la Torre, Enrique Manuel|||0000-0003-0532-8809, Callaghan, Adrian H.
Tipo de recurso: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2023
País:España
Institución:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
Repositorio:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
Idioma:inglés
OAI Identifier:oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/405966
Acceso en línea:https://hdl.handle.net/2117/405966
https://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2023.645
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palabra clave:Wave mechanics
Water waves
Wave breaking
Surface gravity waves
Air/sea interactions
Mecànica ondulatòria
Ones d'aigua
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria mecànica::Mecànica de fluids
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oai_identifier_str oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/405966
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spelling The influence of bandwidth on the energetics of intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking wavesCao, RuiPadilla de la Torre, Enrique Manuel|||0000-0003-0532-8809Callaghan, Adrian H.Wave mechanicsWater wavesWave breakingSurface gravity wavesAir/sea interactionsMecànica ondulatòriaOnes d'aiguaÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria mecànica::Mecànica de fluidsAn experimental investigation of two-dimensional dispersively focused laboratory breaking waves is presented. We describe the bandwidth effect on breaking wave energetics, including spectral energy evolution, characteristic group velocity, energy dissipation and its rate, and breaking strength parameter, b. To evaluate the role of bandwidth, three definitions of wave group steepness are adopted where Ss and Sn are bandwidth-dependent and Sp remains constant when bandwidth is changed. Our data show two regimes of spectral energy evolution in breaking wave groups, with both regimes bandwidth-dependent: energy dissipation and gain occur at f > 0.95fp ( fp is the peak frequency) and f < 0.95fp, respectively. The characteristic group velocity, which is used in energy dissipation calculations, increases by up to 7 % after wave breaking, being larger for higher bandwidth breaking waves. An unambiguous bandwidth dependence is found between Sp and both the fractional and absolute wave energy dissipation. Wave groups of larger bandwidth break at a lower value of Sp and consequently lose relatively more energy. The energy dissipation rate depends on the breaking duration which itself is bandwidth dependent. Consequently, no clear bandwidth effect is observed in energy dissipation rate when compared with either Sp or Ss. However, there is a systematic bandwidth dependence in the variation of b when parameterised in terms of Sp, with their relationship becoming increasingly nonlinear as bandwidth increases. When parameterised with Ss, b shows a markedly reduced bandwidth dependence. Finally, the numerical breaking onset and relationship between b and Ss in the numerical study of Derakhti & Kirby (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 790, 2016, pp. 553–581) is validated experimentallyThe experiments reported here were funded by the National Science Foundation (grant number OCE-1434866) while A.H.C. was a visiting researcher in the Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering at Imperial College London from 2015 to 2016. A.H.C. received further funding from a Royal Society Shooter International Fellowship and a NERC Standard Grant (grant number NE/T000309/1). While E.M.P. was at Imperial College London, he was supported by NERC (grant number NE/T000309/1). R.C. was supported with a Skempton PhD fellowship from the Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Imperial College London20232023-09-2520242024-04-05journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501VoRhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85info:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/2117/405966https://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2023.645reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPCinstname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)Inglésengopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 Internationalhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/4059662026-05-27T15:37:01Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv The influence of bandwidth on the energetics of intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking waves
title The influence of bandwidth on the energetics of intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking waves
spellingShingle The influence of bandwidth on the energetics of intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking waves
Cao, Rui
Wave mechanics
Water waves
Wave breaking
Surface gravity waves
Air/sea interactions
Mecànica ondulatòria
Ones d'aigua
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria mecànica::Mecànica de fluids
title_short The influence of bandwidth on the energetics of intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking waves
title_full The influence of bandwidth on the energetics of intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking waves
title_fullStr The influence of bandwidth on the energetics of intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking waves
title_full_unstemmed The influence of bandwidth on the energetics of intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking waves
title_sort The influence of bandwidth on the energetics of intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking waves
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Cao, Rui
Padilla de la Torre, Enrique Manuel|||0000-0003-0532-8809
Callaghan, Adrian H.
author Cao, Rui
author_facet Cao, Rui
Padilla de la Torre, Enrique Manuel|||0000-0003-0532-8809
Callaghan, Adrian H.
author_role author
author2 Padilla de la Torre, Enrique Manuel|||0000-0003-0532-8809
Callaghan, Adrian H.
author2_role author
author
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Wave mechanics
Water waves
Wave breaking
Surface gravity waves
Air/sea interactions
Mecànica ondulatòria
Ones d'aigua
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria mecànica::Mecànica de fluids
topic Wave mechanics
Water waves
Wave breaking
Surface gravity waves
Air/sea interactions
Mecànica ondulatòria
Ones d'aigua
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria mecànica::Mecànica de fluids
description An experimental investigation of two-dimensional dispersively focused laboratory breaking waves is presented. We describe the bandwidth effect on breaking wave energetics, including spectral energy evolution, characteristic group velocity, energy dissipation and its rate, and breaking strength parameter, b. To evaluate the role of bandwidth, three definitions of wave group steepness are adopted where Ss and Sn are bandwidth-dependent and Sp remains constant when bandwidth is changed. Our data show two regimes of spectral energy evolution in breaking wave groups, with both regimes bandwidth-dependent: energy dissipation and gain occur at f > 0.95fp ( fp is the peak frequency) and f < 0.95fp, respectively. The characteristic group velocity, which is used in energy dissipation calculations, increases by up to 7 % after wave breaking, being larger for higher bandwidth breaking waves. An unambiguous bandwidth dependence is found between Sp and both the fractional and absolute wave energy dissipation. Wave groups of larger bandwidth break at a lower value of Sp and consequently lose relatively more energy. The energy dissipation rate depends on the breaking duration which itself is bandwidth dependent. Consequently, no clear bandwidth effect is observed in energy dissipation rate when compared with either Sp or Ss. However, there is a systematic bandwidth dependence in the variation of b when parameterised in terms of Sp, with their relationship becoming increasingly nonlinear as bandwidth increases. When parameterised with Ss, b shows a markedly reduced bandwidth dependence. Finally, the numerical breaking onset and relationship between b and Ss in the numerical study of Derakhti & Kirby (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 790, 2016, pp. 553–581) is validated experimentally
publishDate 2023
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2023
2023-09-25
2024
2024-04-05
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv journal article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
VoR
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv https://hdl.handle.net/2117/405966
https://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2023.645
url https://hdl.handle.net/2117/405966
https://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2023.645
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
eng
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
language eng
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/
dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
instname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
instname_str Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
reponame_str UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
collection UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
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repository.mail.fl_str_mv
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