Study of dyeing process of hemp/cotton fabrics by using natural dyes obtained from rubia tinctorum L. and calendula officialis

The objective of this work was to assess the possibility of dyeing a substrate composed of non-textile industrial hemp using natural dyes from common madder (Rubia Tinctorum L.) and calendula (Calendula Officialis) and tannin and alum as mordants. The substrate used for the dyeing had a 25/75 hemp/c...

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Detalles Bibliográficos
Autores: Mijas Vélez, Gabriela Dayana|||0000-0002-4688-7175, Josa, Mariona, Cayuela Marín, Diana|||0000-0002-1048-8340, Riba Moliner, Marta|||0000-0003-0001-2055
Tipo de recurso: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2022
País:España
Institución:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
Repositorio:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
Idioma:inglés
OAI Identifier:oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/375679
Acceso en línea:https://hdl.handle.net/2117/375679
https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/polym14214508
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palabra clave:Dyes and dyeing
Hemp
Cotton
Calendula officinalis
Dyes and dyeing -- Textile fibers
Natural dyes
Calendula
Common madder
Tints i tenyit
Cànem
Cotó
Tints i tenyit -- Fibres tèxtils
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria tèxtil::Fabricació tèxtil::Tintura
Descripción
Sumario:The objective of this work was to assess the possibility of dyeing a substrate composed of non-textile industrial hemp using natural dyes from common madder (Rubia Tinctorum L.) and calendula (Calendula Officialis) and tannin and alum as mordants. The substrate used for the dyeing had a 25/75 hemp/cotton composition. The hemp raw material is an agricultural by-product that was subjected to mechanical and chemical treatments in order to cottonize the fibers, blend them with cotton, and thus obtain first 40-tex open-end yarns and then a knitted fabric. The latter was subjected to different dyeing conditions by varying the dye, mordant, and method for its application, type of water, and rinsing after dyeing. Measurements of the difference (¿E) and intensity (K/S) of color and fastness to washing and rubbing were carried out. The results showed that dyeing of a non-textile residual hemp substrate is possible, and that calendula is a good option for dyeing it with tap water, tannin-alum set in a meta-mordanting process, and rinsing after 24 h. In this way, a contribution has been made to the circular economy of the textile industry through the use of more sustainable sources and products