The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beaches

14 pages, 11 figures, 1 table

Detalhes bibliográficos
Autores: Castelle, Bruno, Coco, Giovanni
Formato: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2012
País:España
Recursos:Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC)
Repositorio:DIGITAL.CSIC. Repositorio Institucional del CSIC
OAI Identifier:oai:digital.csic.es:10261/403468
Acesso em linha:http://hdl.handle.net/10261/403468
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palavra-chave:Numerical modelling
Rip current
Morphodynamics
Embayed beach
Self-organization
Headland rip
id ES_7e61e940da7318e5c4b293b60c879402
oai_identifier_str oai:digital.csic.es:10261/403468
network_acronym_str ES
network_name_str España
repository_id_str
spelling The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beachesCastelle, BrunoCoco, GiovanniNumerical modellingRip currentMorphodynamicsEmbayed beachSelf-organizationHeadland rip14 pages, 11 figures, 1 tableWe use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to examine the formation and nonlinear evolution of surfzone rip channels on embayed beaches. Starting from a range of embayed beach bathymetries characterized by different length and curvature, and under different time-invariant and time-varying wave conditions, the numerical model can reproduce the flow circulation and morphological characteristics observed on natural embayed beaches: (1) normal beach circulation, characterized by rips similar to non-embayed beaches and the presence of headland rips, (2) cellular circulation, with either headland rips only occurring at one or both ends of the embayment or a single rip at the centre of the beach and (3) transitional circulation, where both topography and currents influence rip location and behaviour. Time-invariant simulations show that, under oblique-wave forcing, rip spacing is systematically larger updrift than downdrift. Headland rips are preferably observed for straight beaches, with no clear dependence on wave angle. Wave shadowing and resulting alongshore gradients in wave height against the headland are the primary driving mechanism for headland rips. The formation of a single central rip is observed for short, curved embayed beaches, with no clear dependence on the wave angle as well. We use a novel non-dimensional embayment scaling parameter to quantify the degree of headland impact on beach circulation. Our simulations with shore-normal waves and initially alongshore-uniform embayed beaches show the parameter is consistent with observations. Our simulations also suggest that for high wave obliquity or time-varying wave angle to the shore, the influence of the headlands can progressively propagate into the whole domain. A time-varying wave angle results in persistent migration of rips towards the downcurrent headland rip, the splitting of shoals, an increase in merging of rip channels and more alongshore-variable rip spacing. The longshore variability of rip channel wavelength along embayed beaches is consistent with the hypothesis that rips are self-organized patterns and is consistent with recent field observationsPeer reviewedElsevier202520252012info:eu-repo/semantics/articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501http://hdl.handle.net/10261/403468reponame:DIGITAL.CSIC. Repositorio Institucional del CSICinstname:Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC)Ingléshttps://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2012.04.010Noinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:digital.csic.es:10261/4034682026-05-22T06:33:51Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beaches
title The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beaches
spellingShingle The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beaches
Castelle, Bruno
Numerical modelling
Rip current
Morphodynamics
Embayed beach
Self-organization
Headland rip
title_short The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beaches
title_full The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beaches
title_fullStr The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beaches
title_full_unstemmed The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beaches
title_sort The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beaches
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Castelle, Bruno
Coco, Giovanni
author Castelle, Bruno
author_facet Castelle, Bruno
Coco, Giovanni
author_role author
author2 Coco, Giovanni
author2_role author
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Numerical modelling
Rip current
Morphodynamics
Embayed beach
Self-organization
Headland rip
topic Numerical modelling
Rip current
Morphodynamics
Embayed beach
Self-organization
Headland rip
description 14 pages, 11 figures, 1 table
publishDate 2012
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2012
2025
2025
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv http://hdl.handle.net/10261/403468
url http://hdl.handle.net/10261/403468
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2012.04.010
No
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Elsevier
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Elsevier
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:DIGITAL.CSIC. Repositorio Institucional del CSIC
instname:Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC)
instname_str Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC)
reponame_str DIGITAL.CSIC. Repositorio Institucional del CSIC
collection DIGITAL.CSIC. Repositorio Institucional del CSIC
repository.name.fl_str_mv
repository.mail.fl_str_mv
_version_ 1869411732132200448
score 15.81155

Registos relacionados