Observations of megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars at an open, fetch-limited beach

Alongshore changes in shorelines along sandy beaches are a result of variations in wave conditions and nearshore morphology, which can cause straight shorelines to develop large-scale (100–1000¿m wavelength) undulations, called megacusps, which cause local shoreline accretion and erosion. Megacusps...

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Detalhes bibliográficos
Autores: Swart, Rinse Leendert de|||0000-0001-6584-5184, Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982, Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137, Simarro, Gonzalo, Guillén Aranda, Jorge
Formato: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2022
País:España
Recursos:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
Repositorio:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
Idioma:inglés
OAI Identifier:oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/372167
Acesso em linha:https://hdl.handle.net/2117/372167
https://dx.doi.org/10.1002/esp.5451
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palavra-chave:Morphology
Mediterranean Sea
Nearshore patterns
Morphological coupling
Rip-channel systems
Rip cell circulations
Video monitoring
Morfologia (Biologia)
Mediterrània, Mar
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
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spelling Observations of megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars at an open, fetch-limited beachSwart, Rinse Leendert de|||0000-0001-6584-5184Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137Simarro, GonzaloGuillén Aranda, JorgeMorphologyMediterranean SeaMorphologyNearshore patternsMorphological couplingRip-channel systemsRip cell circulationsMediterranean SeaVideo monitoringMorfologia (Biologia)Mediterrània, MarÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::FísicaAlongshore changes in shorelines along sandy beaches are a result of variations in wave conditions and nearshore morphology, which can cause straight shorelines to develop large-scale (100–1000¿m wavelength) undulations, called megacusps, which cause local shoreline accretion and erosion. Megacusps are often morphologically coupled to alongshore variability in the nearshore sandbar (crescentic bars). Sandbar rhythmicity has been studied extensively, whilst megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars have received less attention. This study uses a long-term dataset of hourly time-exposure video images and detailed propagated wave conditions to investigate megacusp dynamics and the corresponding sandbar–shoreline coupling at the low-energetic, tideless beach of Castelldefels (northwestern Mediterranean Sea, Spain). Megacusps were observed during 24% of the study period. Crescentic bars were present during 91% of the days with megacusps, whilst megacusps were not observed during 50% of the days with crescentic bars. Megacusp wavelengths (100–700¿m) were comparable to those of crescentic bars, whilst cross-shore amplitudes (3–8¿m) and alongshore migration speeds (0–15¿m/day) were smaller than those of crescentic bars. No clear relation was observed between wave conditions and megacusp formation, migration and disappearance. However, megacusp presence was strongly linked to crescentic bar presence, as megacusps mostly developed some days after the formation of a crescentic bar. Coupling between shoreline and inner sandbar was significant during 74% of the time with simultaneous presence of megacusps and crescentic bars. No dominance of one particular coupling pattern was observed, although the pattern depended on the wave height and the wave angle. It is hypothesised that the wave height and angle determine the type of flow pattern over the inner crescentic bar (single or double rip cell circulations versus meandering currents) and thus control the type of coupling.20222022-07-1820222022-09-01journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501VoRhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85info:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/2117/372167https://dx.doi.org/10.1002/esp.5451reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPCinstname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)Inglésengopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 Internationalhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/3721672026-05-27T15:37:01Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Observations of megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars at an open, fetch-limited beach
title Observations of megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars at an open, fetch-limited beach
spellingShingle Observations of megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars at an open, fetch-limited beach
Swart, Rinse Leendert de|||0000-0001-6584-5184
Morphology
Mediterranean Sea
Morphology
Nearshore patterns
Morphological coupling
Rip-channel systems
Rip cell circulations
Mediterranean Sea
Video monitoring
Morfologia (Biologia)
Mediterrània, Mar
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
title_short Observations of megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars at an open, fetch-limited beach
title_full Observations of megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars at an open, fetch-limited beach
title_fullStr Observations of megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars at an open, fetch-limited beach
title_full_unstemmed Observations of megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars at an open, fetch-limited beach
title_sort Observations of megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars at an open, fetch-limited beach
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Swart, Rinse Leendert de|||0000-0001-6584-5184
Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137
Simarro, Gonzalo
Guillén Aranda, Jorge
author Swart, Rinse Leendert de|||0000-0001-6584-5184
author_facet Swart, Rinse Leendert de|||0000-0001-6584-5184
Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137
Simarro, Gonzalo
Guillén Aranda, Jorge
author_role author
author2 Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137
Simarro, Gonzalo
Guillén Aranda, Jorge
author2_role author
author
author
author
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Morphology
Mediterranean Sea
Morphology
Nearshore patterns
Morphological coupling
Rip-channel systems
Rip cell circulations
Mediterranean Sea
Video monitoring
Morfologia (Biologia)
Mediterrània, Mar
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
topic Morphology
Mediterranean Sea
Morphology
Nearshore patterns
Morphological coupling
Rip-channel systems
Rip cell circulations
Mediterranean Sea
Video monitoring
Morfologia (Biologia)
Mediterrània, Mar
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
description Alongshore changes in shorelines along sandy beaches are a result of variations in wave conditions and nearshore morphology, which can cause straight shorelines to develop large-scale (100–1000¿m wavelength) undulations, called megacusps, which cause local shoreline accretion and erosion. Megacusps are often morphologically coupled to alongshore variability in the nearshore sandbar (crescentic bars). Sandbar rhythmicity has been studied extensively, whilst megacusp dynamics and their coupling with crescentic bars have received less attention. This study uses a long-term dataset of hourly time-exposure video images and detailed propagated wave conditions to investigate megacusp dynamics and the corresponding sandbar–shoreline coupling at the low-energetic, tideless beach of Castelldefels (northwestern Mediterranean Sea, Spain). Megacusps were observed during 24% of the study period. Crescentic bars were present during 91% of the days with megacusps, whilst megacusps were not observed during 50% of the days with crescentic bars. Megacusp wavelengths (100–700¿m) were comparable to those of crescentic bars, whilst cross-shore amplitudes (3–8¿m) and alongshore migration speeds (0–15¿m/day) were smaller than those of crescentic bars. No clear relation was observed between wave conditions and megacusp formation, migration and disappearance. However, megacusp presence was strongly linked to crescentic bar presence, as megacusps mostly developed some days after the formation of a crescentic bar. Coupling between shoreline and inner sandbar was significant during 74% of the time with simultaneous presence of megacusps and crescentic bars. No dominance of one particular coupling pattern was observed, although the pattern depended on the wave height and the wave angle. It is hypothesised that the wave height and angle determine the type of flow pattern over the inner crescentic bar (single or double rip cell circulations versus meandering currents) and thus control the type of coupling.
publishDate 2022
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2022
2022-07-18
2022
2022-09-01
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv journal article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
VoR
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv https://hdl.handle.net/2117/372167
https://dx.doi.org/10.1002/esp.5451
url https://hdl.handle.net/2117/372167
https://dx.doi.org/10.1002/esp.5451
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
eng
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
language eng
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
instname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
instname_str Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
reponame_str UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
collection UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
repository.name.fl_str_mv
repository.mail.fl_str_mv
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score 15,300724

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