Measuring free surface elevation of shoaling waves with pressure transducers

An assessment of formulas to recover wave surface elevation from pressure measurements was carried out in the present study. The investigation focused on the formulas’ performance in the shoaling region, i.e. where the wave nonlinearity gradually increases as the wave travels towards shallower water...

Full description

Bibliographic Details
Authors: Marino, Massimiliano, Cáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029, Musumeci, Rosaria Ester
Format: article
Publication Date:2022
Country:España
Institution:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
Repository:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
Language:English
OAI Identifier:oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/374690
Online Access:https://hdl.handle.net/2117/374690
https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2022.104803
Access Level:Open access
Keyword:Ocean waves
Pressure transducers
Nonlinear waves
Wave skewness
Onades -- Models matemàtics
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
id ES_7d9e4833f06ad67dfaaedda8fa7e26a1
oai_identifier_str oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/374690
network_acronym_str ES
network_name_str España
repository_id_str
spelling Measuring free surface elevation of shoaling waves with pressure transducersMarino, MassimilianoCáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029Musumeci, Rosaria EsterOcean wavesPressure transducersNonlinear wavesWave skewnessOnades -- Models matemàticsÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costesAn assessment of formulas to recover wave surface elevation from pressure measurements was carried out in the present study. The investigation focused on the formulas’ performance in the shoaling region, i.e. where the wave nonlinearity gradually increases as the wave travels towards shallower waters. Formulas based on linear wave theory alongside nonlinear reconstructions were considered. Experiments in a large-scale wave flume provided with a concrete beach profile were performed, in which regular waves were generated and surface elevation was measured with acoustic, resistive and pressure gauges. The considered formulas require the application of a cutoff frequency to the wave signal in order to avoid high frequencies amplification that progressively arise as wave shoaling occur. A simple but effective method to obtain a reference cutoff frequency is proposed in the present work; the method is based on a polynomial fitting of the unfiltered wave energy spectrum. A sensitivity analysis of each formula to the variation of this cutoff frequency was carried out. Results showed that all the investigated formulas recover wave elevation fairly well for low-nonlinearity waves, whereas overestimating wave crest height as nonlinearity increases. Wave reconstruction of the linear formulation performance was comparable to nonlinear formulations in terms of wave crest height reconstruction, although tending to amplify frequencies in the wave trough. Moreover, the performance of the formulas to correctly recover the asymmetry and flatness of the surface elevation distribution was assessed by analysing third- and fourth-order moment statistics. In this sense, nonlinear reconstruction formulas performed better in recovering the asymmetric distribution of the wave elevation, with the formula based on linear wave theory underestimating skewness and kurtosis for large nonlinearity waves.This work was funded by the projects: “ISYPORT - Integrated System for navigation risk mitigation in PORTs” funded under the PNR 2015-2020 program, REST-COAST - Large scale RESToration of COASTal ecosystems through rivers to sea connectivity (call: H2020-LC-GD-2020; Proposal no. 101037097) and “VARIO - VAlutazione del Rischio Idraulico in sistemi cOmplessi” of the University of Catania.Peer ReviewedElsevier20222022-08-0120222022-10-19journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501AMhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_ab4af688f83e57aainfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/2117/374690https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2022.104803reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPCinstname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)InglésengEuropean Commission http://doi.org/10.13039/100010661 Horizon 2020 Framework Programme 101037097 Large scale RESToration of COASTal ecosystems through rivers to sea connectivityopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 Internationalhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/3746902026-05-27T15:37:01Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Measuring free surface elevation of shoaling waves with pressure transducers
title Measuring free surface elevation of shoaling waves with pressure transducers
spellingShingle Measuring free surface elevation of shoaling waves with pressure transducers
Marino, Massimiliano
Ocean waves
Pressure transducers
Nonlinear waves
Wave skewness
Onades -- Models matemàtics
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
title_short Measuring free surface elevation of shoaling waves with pressure transducers
title_full Measuring free surface elevation of shoaling waves with pressure transducers
title_fullStr Measuring free surface elevation of shoaling waves with pressure transducers
title_full_unstemmed Measuring free surface elevation of shoaling waves with pressure transducers
title_sort Measuring free surface elevation of shoaling waves with pressure transducers
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Marino, Massimiliano
Cáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029
Musumeci, Rosaria Ester
author Marino, Massimiliano
author_facet Marino, Massimiliano
Cáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029
Musumeci, Rosaria Ester
author_role author
author2 Cáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029
Musumeci, Rosaria Ester
author2_role author
author
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Ocean waves
Pressure transducers
Nonlinear waves
Wave skewness
Onades -- Models matemàtics
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
topic Ocean waves
Pressure transducers
Nonlinear waves
Wave skewness
Onades -- Models matemàtics
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes
description An assessment of formulas to recover wave surface elevation from pressure measurements was carried out in the present study. The investigation focused on the formulas’ performance in the shoaling region, i.e. where the wave nonlinearity gradually increases as the wave travels towards shallower waters. Formulas based on linear wave theory alongside nonlinear reconstructions were considered. Experiments in a large-scale wave flume provided with a concrete beach profile were performed, in which regular waves were generated and surface elevation was measured with acoustic, resistive and pressure gauges. The considered formulas require the application of a cutoff frequency to the wave signal in order to avoid high frequencies amplification that progressively arise as wave shoaling occur. A simple but effective method to obtain a reference cutoff frequency is proposed in the present work; the method is based on a polynomial fitting of the unfiltered wave energy spectrum. A sensitivity analysis of each formula to the variation of this cutoff frequency was carried out. Results showed that all the investigated formulas recover wave elevation fairly well for low-nonlinearity waves, whereas overestimating wave crest height as nonlinearity increases. Wave reconstruction of the linear formulation performance was comparable to nonlinear formulations in terms of wave crest height reconstruction, although tending to amplify frequencies in the wave trough. Moreover, the performance of the formulas to correctly recover the asymmetry and flatness of the surface elevation distribution was assessed by analysing third- and fourth-order moment statistics. In this sense, nonlinear reconstruction formulas performed better in recovering the asymmetric distribution of the wave elevation, with the formula based on linear wave theory underestimating skewness and kurtosis for large nonlinearity waves.
publishDate 2022
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2022
2022-08-01
2022
2022-10-19
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv journal article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
AM
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_ab4af688f83e57aa
dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv https://hdl.handle.net/2117/374690
https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2022.104803
url https://hdl.handle.net/2117/374690
https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2022.104803
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
eng
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
language eng
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv European Commission http://doi.org/10.13039/100010661 Horizon 2020 Framework Programme 101037097 Large scale RESToration of COASTal ecosystems through rivers to sea connectivity
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Elsevier
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Elsevier
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
instname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
instname_str Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
reponame_str UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
collection UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
repository.name.fl_str_mv
repository.mail.fl_str_mv
_version_ 1869411677241344000
score 15,300724

Similar Items