Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers

A morphodynamic model has been extended to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of nearshore sand bars. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. Offshore wave, wind and tide condition...

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Autores: Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982, Swart, Huib E. de, Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137, Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509
Tipo de recurso: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2011
País:España
Institución:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
Repositorio:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
Idioma:inglés
OAI Identifier:oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/26372
Acceso en línea:https://hdl.handle.net/2117/26372
https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2011.02.016
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palabra clave:Sand bars--Forecasting
Coastal zone
Nearshore bars
Longshore currents
Waves on beaches
Rollers
Longshore sediment transport
Platges -- Erosió
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia
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spelling Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollersRibas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982Swart, Huib E. deCalvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509Sand bars--ForecastingCoastal zoneNearshore barsLongshore currentsWaves on beachesRollersLongshore sediment transportPlatges -- ErosióÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::GeologiaA morphodynamic model has been extended to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of nearshore sand bars. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. Offshore wave, wind and tide conditions and the bathymetry measured at Egmond site (the Netherlands) are firstly applied to compute the longshore current and wave height profiles.20112011-10-0120152015-02-16journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501VoRhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85info:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/2117/26372https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2011.02.016reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPCinstname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)Inglésengopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spainhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/263722026-05-27T15:37:01Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers
title Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers
spellingShingle Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers
Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
Sand bars--Forecasting
Coastal zone
Nearshore bars
Longshore currents
Waves on beaches
Rollers
Longshore sediment transport
Platges -- Erosió
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia
title_short Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers
title_full Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers
title_fullStr Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers
title_full_unstemmed Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers
title_sort Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
Swart, Huib E. de
Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137
Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509
author Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
author_facet Ribas Prats, Francesca|||0000-0003-4701-5982
Swart, Huib E. de
Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137
Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509
author_role author
author2 Swart, Huib E. de
Calvete Manrique, Daniel|||0000-0002-5402-5137
Falqués Serra, Albert|||0000-0002-3945-1509
author2_role author
author
author
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Sand bars--Forecasting
Coastal zone
Nearshore bars
Longshore currents
Waves on beaches
Rollers
Longshore sediment transport
Platges -- Erosió
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia
topic Sand bars--Forecasting
Coastal zone
Nearshore bars
Longshore currents
Waves on beaches
Rollers
Longshore sediment transport
Platges -- Erosió
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia
description A morphodynamic model has been extended to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of nearshore sand bars. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. Offshore wave, wind and tide conditions and the bathymetry measured at Egmond site (the Netherlands) are firstly applied to compute the longshore current and wave height profiles.
publishDate 2011
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2011
2011-10-01
2015
2015-02-16
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv journal article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
VoR
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv https://hdl.handle.net/2117/26372
https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2011.02.016
url https://hdl.handle.net/2117/26372
https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2011.02.016
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
eng
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
language eng
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/
dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
instname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
instname_str Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)
reponame_str UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
collection UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC
repository.name.fl_str_mv
repository.mail.fl_str_mv
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