Large-scale wave breaking over a barred beach: SPH numerical simulation and comparison with experiments
Wave breaking plays a crucial role in several areas of interest in coastal engineering, such as flooding, wave loading on structures and coastal morphodynamics. In the present study, Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) simulations of monochromatic waves breaking over a rigid barred beach profile a...
| Autores: | , , , , |
|---|---|
| Tipo de documento: | artigo |
| Data de publicação: | 2023 |
| País: | España |
| Recursos: | Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) |
| Repositório: | UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC |
| Idioma: | inglês |
| OAI Identifier: | oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/398950 |
| Acesso em linha: | https://hdl.handle.net/2117/398950 https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2023.104362 |
| Access Level: | Acceso aberto |
| Palavra-chave: | Water waves -- Mathematical models Wave breaking Barred beach Smoothed particle hydrodynamics DualSPHysics solver Numerical validation Onades -- Models matemàtics Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes |
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| dc.title.none.fl_str_mv |
Large-scale wave breaking over a barred beach: SPH numerical simulation and comparison with experiments |
| title |
Large-scale wave breaking over a barred beach: SPH numerical simulation and comparison with experiments |
| spellingShingle |
Large-scale wave breaking over a barred beach: SPH numerical simulation and comparison with experiments Altomare, Corrado|||0000-0001-8817-0431 Water waves -- Mathematical models Wave breaking Barred beach Smoothed particle hydrodynamics DualSPHysics solver Numerical validation Onades -- Models matemàtics Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes |
| title_short |
Large-scale wave breaking over a barred beach: SPH numerical simulation and comparison with experiments |
| title_full |
Large-scale wave breaking over a barred beach: SPH numerical simulation and comparison with experiments |
| title_fullStr |
Large-scale wave breaking over a barred beach: SPH numerical simulation and comparison with experiments |
| title_full_unstemmed |
Large-scale wave breaking over a barred beach: SPH numerical simulation and comparison with experiments |
| title_sort |
Large-scale wave breaking over a barred beach: SPH numerical simulation and comparison with experiments |
| dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv |
Altomare, Corrado|||0000-0001-8817-0431 Scandura, Pietro Cáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029 Van Der A, Dominic Viccione, Giacomo |
| author |
Altomare, Corrado|||0000-0001-8817-0431 |
| author_facet |
Altomare, Corrado|||0000-0001-8817-0431 Scandura, Pietro Cáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029 Van Der A, Dominic Viccione, Giacomo |
| author_role |
author |
| author2 |
Scandura, Pietro Cáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029 Van Der A, Dominic Viccione, Giacomo |
| author2_role |
author author author author |
| dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv |
Water waves -- Mathematical models Wave breaking Barred beach Smoothed particle hydrodynamics DualSPHysics solver Numerical validation Onades -- Models matemàtics Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes |
| topic |
Water waves -- Mathematical models Wave breaking Barred beach Smoothed particle hydrodynamics DualSPHysics solver Numerical validation Onades -- Models matemàtics Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes |
| description |
Wave breaking plays a crucial role in several areas of interest in coastal engineering, such as flooding, wave loading on structures and coastal morphodynamics. In the present study, Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) simulations of monochromatic waves breaking over a rigid barred beach profile are presented. The numerical results comprise wave heights, phase average velocities, time-averaged velocities, vorticity dynamics, and radiation stress, and are validated versus detailed water surface and velocity measurements carried out in a large-scale laboratory wave flume. The experimental data include velocity profiles below the wave trough measured at 22 cross-shore locations in the bar region using acoustic and optical techniques and water surface elevation measured along the flume using resistive gauges, acoustic gauges and pressure sensors. This study is novel in that it analyses the hydrodynamics of wave breaking at a scale close to natural conditions, thus significantly reducing the scale effects of most previous studies, which were conducted at a much smaller scale. In general, water surface elevation is well reproduced by SPH, but discrepancies with the experiments are observed in the highly aerated breaking region, depending on the measurement technique. The SPH simulation shows that wave breaking generates a recirculating cell, immediately above the trough of the bar. Within this cell, near the bed, the flow is offshore directed, while in the upper part of the water column it is onshore oriented. This flow is probably one of the mechanisms that determine the growth of the bar when the bed is made of mobile material. The time-averaged velocity profiles are reproduced with reasonable accuracy by the numerical model, except at the edges of the bar trough, where discrepancies with respect to the measurements are observed. The numerical results provide detailed information, particularly interesting in areas lacking experimental data. One of the main surprising features revealed by the SPH simulations is the generation of a vortex pair that occurs when the cavities formed by the plunge jet collapse. These vortices can occasionally deform the free surface. Based on the numerical results, an analysis of the terms contributing to radiation stress shows that the product between the horizontal and the vertical velocity components does not make a significant contribution. Through comparisons with the SPH results, it is observed that the linear wave theory provides correct estimates of the radiation stress in the shoaling region sufficiently far from the bar crest, while in the surf zone it reproduces incorrect results. Information about the appropriate SPH model setup to correctly capture the physical processes involved in the breaking phenomenon are also presented. |
| publishDate |
2023 |
| dc.date.none.fl_str_mv |
2023 2023-10-01 2024 2024-01-09 |
| dc.type.none.fl_str_mv |
journal article http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501 VoR http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85 |
| dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article |
| format |
article |
| dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv |
https://hdl.handle.net/2117/398950 https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2023.104362 |
| url |
https://hdl.handle.net/2117/398950 https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2023.104362 |
| dc.language.none.fl_str_mv |
Inglés eng |
| language_invalid_str_mv |
Inglés |
| language |
eng |
| dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv |
European Commission http://doi.org/10.13039/100010661 Horizon 2020 Framework Programme 654110 HYDRALAB+ Adapting to climate change |
| dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv |
open access http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2 Attribution 4.0 International http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ |
| dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
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open access http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2 Attribution 4.0 International http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ |
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openAccess |
| dc.format.none.fl_str_mv |
application/pdf |
| dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Elsevier |
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Elsevier |
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reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC instname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) |
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Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) |
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UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC |
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UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC |
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1869405804316065792 |
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Large-scale wave breaking over a barred beach: SPH numerical simulation and comparison with experimentsAltomare, Corrado|||0000-0001-8817-0431Scandura, PietroCáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029Van Der A, DominicViccione, GiacomoWater waves -- Mathematical modelsWave breakingBarred beachSmoothed particle hydrodynamicsDualSPHysics solverNumerical validationOnades -- Models matemàticsÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costesWave breaking plays a crucial role in several areas of interest in coastal engineering, such as flooding, wave loading on structures and coastal morphodynamics. In the present study, Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) simulations of monochromatic waves breaking over a rigid barred beach profile are presented. The numerical results comprise wave heights, phase average velocities, time-averaged velocities, vorticity dynamics, and radiation stress, and are validated versus detailed water surface and velocity measurements carried out in a large-scale laboratory wave flume. The experimental data include velocity profiles below the wave trough measured at 22 cross-shore locations in the bar region using acoustic and optical techniques and water surface elevation measured along the flume using resistive gauges, acoustic gauges and pressure sensors. This study is novel in that it analyses the hydrodynamics of wave breaking at a scale close to natural conditions, thus significantly reducing the scale effects of most previous studies, which were conducted at a much smaller scale. In general, water surface elevation is well reproduced by SPH, but discrepancies with the experiments are observed in the highly aerated breaking region, depending on the measurement technique. The SPH simulation shows that wave breaking generates a recirculating cell, immediately above the trough of the bar. Within this cell, near the bed, the flow is offshore directed, while in the upper part of the water column it is onshore oriented. This flow is probably one of the mechanisms that determine the growth of the bar when the bed is made of mobile material. The time-averaged velocity profiles are reproduced with reasonable accuracy by the numerical model, except at the edges of the bar trough, where discrepancies with respect to the measurements are observed. The numerical results provide detailed information, particularly interesting in areas lacking experimental data. One of the main surprising features revealed by the SPH simulations is the generation of a vortex pair that occurs when the cavities formed by the plunge jet collapse. These vortices can occasionally deform the free surface. Based on the numerical results, an analysis of the terms contributing to radiation stress shows that the product between the horizontal and the vertical velocity components does not make a significant contribution. Through comparisons with the SPH results, it is observed that the linear wave theory provides correct estimates of the radiation stress in the shoaling region sufficiently far from the bar crest, while in the surf zone it reproduces incorrect results. Information about the appropriate SPH model setup to correctly capture the physical processes involved in the breaking phenomenon are also presented.The experiments were supported by the European Community’s Horizon 2020 Programme through the grant to the budget of the integrated infrastructure initiative HYDRALAB＋, Contract no. 654110, and were conducted as part of the transnational access project HYBRID. Dr. Corrado Altomare acknowledges funding from the Spanish government and the European Social Found (ESF) under the programme ’Ramón y Cajal 2020’ (RYC2020-030197-I/AEI/10.13039/501100011033). Pietro Scandura acknowledges the support received from the University of Catania, Italy by funding the research project ‘Valutazione del rischio idraulico in sistemi complessi (VARIO)’.Peer ReviewedElsevier20232023-10-0120242024-01-09journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501VoRhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85info:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/2117/398950https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2023.104362reponame:UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPCinstname:Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)InglésengEuropean Commission http://doi.org/10.13039/100010661 Horizon 2020 Framework Programme 654110 HYDRALAB+ Adapting to climate changeopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Attribution 4.0 Internationalhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/3989502026-05-27T15:37:01Z |
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15.300724 |