Estudo Morfodinâmica Sazonal de Curto Período do Segmento Costeiro Praia Porto das Dunas - Praia do Futuro, Ceará - Brasil

The aim of this work is to analyze the coastal morphodynamic in the coastal segment between the Porto das Dunas Beach and Praia do Futuro Beach, East coast of Ceará state.Twenty five measurements of beach and surf zone profiles associated to measurements of wave height and period, as well as swash c...

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Detalhes bibliográficos
Autores: Marino, Márcia Thelma Rios Donato, Freire, George Satander Sá, Fernandes, Denise
Formato: artículo
Estado:Versión publicada
Fecha de publicación:2014
País:Brasil
Recursos:Universidade Federal do Ceará (UFC)
Repositorio:Repositório Institucional da Universidade Federal do Ceará (UFC)
Idioma:portugués
OAI Identifier:oai:repositorio.ufc.br:riufc/68373
Acesso em linha:http://www.repositorio.ufc.br/handle/riufc/68373
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palavra-chave:Costa
Erosão
Zona Costeira - Gestão
Costal
Erosion
Coastal zone management
Descrição
Resumo:The aim of this work is to analyze the coastal morphodynamic in the coastal segment between the Porto das Dunas Beach and Praia do Futuro Beach, East coast of Ceará state.Twenty five measurements of beach and surf zone profiles associated to measurements of wave height and period, as well as swash climate were made during low spring tide, in five beaches. The beaches were classified by their modal morphodynamic state, a differentiation due to different wave c1imate and sediment characteristics. The Morphodynamic States were obtained using Dean's parameter (Ω). Data were collected between August - 2010 and February - 2011. The average wave breaker height was 1.1 m and predominant wave breaker type was sliding. The periods follow a seasonal pattern, with smalle waves in the dry season and larger ones in rainy season. The three sectors ranges from dissipative to intermediary morphodynamic stage characteristics, beach face with little inclination. In two beaches - Porto das Dunas and Futuro Beach - the coastline is unprotected and receives directly the incident waves on the inner adjacent shelf and in too beaches are of protected by beachrocks. In the sector 2 was observed morphodynamic stage near reflective in the COFECO Beach. In the Sector 3, the beach profiles showed largest extensions during the study period, unlike the trend of others sectors. The sedimentary balance confirms a state between depositional and erosional processes, however with erosional trend for Sectors 1 and 2, and depositional trend for Sector 3. This corroborates with the sediment volumes and with the coastline variation. The coastal morphodynamic is associated with weather seasonality, winter profiles during periods of drought. Moreover, summer profiles are observed in the rainy season. The irregular urbanization on the backshore and dune fields is causing changes in the landscape of the beach ecosystem. Stricter supervision is recommended, and implementation of a monitoring programme and a spatial planning programme in this area are essential for the coastal dynamic balance.